Bosnia and Herzegovina was not just another destination on the map for me. It was a journey that, from day one, took place high up in the mountains, far away from the city rush—in a landscape where every step carries weight and every view has meaning.
One of our first mountain experiences was a hike in the lush Visočica range to the peak of Vito (1,960 m). The trail led through a landscape that felt surprisingly peaceful and untouched. The grass, alpine meadows, and wide-open spaces created a sense of freedom that is rarely experienced anywhere nowadays.
We followed this by crossing the slightly exposed Drstva ridge (1,808 m), which offered breathtaking views down into the deep canyon of the Rakitnica River. On the horizon, the Bjelašnica, Treskavica, Zelengora, and Prenj mountain ranges loomed—mountains whose names sound almost as rugged as their faces. The full-day trek, coming right after a long hours-long drive from the Czech Republic, definitely tested our strength, but it set the perfect tone for the entire expedition.
Next up was a drive to Sarajevo. A city with a long history that welcomes tourists with open arms. That is Sarajevo—a city that has endured immense suffering throughout its history and literally rose from the ashes like a Phoenix. The city's roots date back to the 13th century, when it was mainly known for trade and marketplaces. It was heavily influenced by Istanbul, and over the years, the city was part of the Ottoman Empire, Austria-Hungary, and Yugoslavia. It wasn't until March 1992 that Bosnia and Herzegovina officially declared independence, and with that event, Sarajevo became its capital. It was a massive contrast to the peaceful mountains. The crowds here were huge! However, it is a culinary paradise and packed with landmarks, especially the Latin Bridge. This is the most famous bridge in Sarajevo—the exact spot where Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria was assassinated. A memorial plaque on the bridge marks this historic event.
After a few days in the mountains, we enjoyed a rest day rafting on the Neretva River. The emerald-colored water, canyons, and rapids offered a different kind of adrenaline compared to mountain climbing. The rafting was relaxed and playful, topped off with a hearty lunch that tasted twice as good after the exhausting days before.
In the afternoon, we moved on to Mostar, a city that blends an oriental atmosphere with a heavy history.
Mostar is a city that bears the scars of its past, yet feels incredibly alive. We walked through the Old Town, where the stone streets glisten from thousands of footsteps and the air is filled with the aroma of coffee, grilled meat, and oriental spices. The city's main landmark is, of course, the Stari Most (Old Bridge), an elegant arch spanning the turquoise Neretva River. Standing on it and looking down into the deep canyon is an experience that truly gets under your skin.
The next day belonged to Herzegovina. We visited Počitelj, a stone town founded in the 15th century by King Tvrtko I, where narrow streets climb up the hill and time flows a bit slower. We continued to Medjugorje, a well-known pilgrimage site, and ended the day swimming under the Kravica Waterfalls, where the water cascades into a wide amphitheater, inviting you for a refreshing dip.
One of the absolute highlights of the entire trip was the mountain hike to Zelena Glava. The trail was demanding and long, but the views of the entire mountain range and its highest peaks were worth every single step. This was a true, no-compromise mountain trek.
I also frequently look back on our "stroll" through the forest along a narrow worn path cutting right through a minefield. A literal remnant of the war. Along the way, a stray dog joined us, happily running back and forth across the field. My blood ran absolutely cold.
After days spent in the mountains, a change of pace was welcomed. A trip to the coast in Neum brought swimming, relaxation, and the distinctive atmosphere of Bosnia's only seaside resort. It was a brief pause that allowed both body and mind to catch a breath before the final mountainous stretch of our expedition.
Our final day belonged to the highest point of the entire journey—the ascent of Bosanski Maglić (2,386 m), the tallest peak in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Trekking through this alpine terrain demanded full concentration and physical strength, but the reward came in the form of unforgettable views. The descent around Trnovačko Lake, which is uniquely shaped like a heart, served as a symbolic finale to the entire expedition. The Balkans, and Bosnia in particular, are utterly breathtaking. As soon as time allows, I would love to return and discover more of its hidden gems.
I absolutely fell in love with the local cuisine. At its heart were meats—most often lamb, beef, and chicken, either grilled over open flames or slow-braised. A signature dish was ćevapčići, served inside a fluffy somun flatbread with onions. It is a simple meal, yet incredibly flavorful and filling. Pljeskavica, a spiced meat patty, also made frequent appearances and was perfect for fueling up after long hours of hiking in the mountains.
Bureks and other stuffed savory pastries—filled with meat, cheese, or spinach—were also highly popular. Served hot and crispy, they made the ideal quick bite during transit. In a few places, we also tasted bosanski lonac, a traditional, slow-cooked meat and vegetable stew that tastes completely different from anything found in modern cuisine.
Every meal was accompanied by fresh vegetables, salads, and especially bread, which appeared on the table almost automatically. For a sweet finish, we often had baklava or other honey-and-nut desserts, clearly influenced by Ottoman culinary traditions.
The coffee was a whole chapter on its own. Strong Bosnian coffee, served in tiny cups called džezva, often with a sugar cube, was far more than just a drink—it was a cherished ritual.
Overall, the local food was exactly what a traveler needs on a journey like this—hearty and delicious.
I am already looking forward to returning to Bosnia one day. I simply have to see those magnificent mountains again!
