Hrubá Skála: A Loop Trail via the Na Kapelu Viewpoint

Most people imagine the Český ráj (Bohemian Paradise) region bathed in sunshine, with views of Trosky Castle and sandstone towers rising from an endless sea of green. We set out on the Hrubá Skála loop in July—and instead of a summer postcard, we were greeted by a beautiful, mystical fog.

And you know what? We didn’t mind at all.The forest was silent, the rocks gradually emerged from the white mist, and Hrubá Skála Castle looked like a backdrop from a slightly darker fairy tale. Although the views weren't perfectly sharp, the entire trip gained an atmosphere that sunny weather could never have conjured.

The route combines the best of Hruboskalsko: a romantic castle built directly on top of sandstone cliffs, narrow rock crevices, forest paths, and one of the most beautiful vistas in Bohemian Paradise—the Na Kapelu viewpoint. And since we believe a good trip should end with good food, we will also add a tip for the Vietnamese restaurant ÊMÔI in nearby Turnov.

Hrubá Skála – Essential Trip Information

• Starting point: Hrubá Skála Castle
• Route length: Approximately 7–8 km, depending on chosen detours
• Duration: About 3 hours, or longer with photos and stops
• Terrain: Forest paths, sandstone steps, roots, and narrow rock passes
• Stroller suitability: No, not suitable for the entire loop
• Admission to the trail and Na Kapelu viewpoint: Free
• Best season: Spring to autumn; however, Hruboskalsko is magical in any weather

Please note that after rain or in foggy conditions, stones, roots, and steps can become slippery. Sturdy shoes are highly recommended even in the summer. The route is not overly demanding, but it is certainly not a flat, ordinary walk.

Where to Park Near Hrubá Skála Castle

The most convenient option is to park at the parking lot right next to Hrubá Skála Castle. From there, you can walk straight into the courtyard and then continue into the rock town. During the peak summer season, the area gets extremely busy, so we highly recommend arriving as early as possible in the morning.

If you want to avoid dealing with a full parking lot, you can also reach Hruboskalsko by train. The closest station is Hrubá Skála, though you should expect an additional walk with an uphill climb towards the castle. Another option is Sedmihorky, which allows you to join a longer loop through the rock town directly from the valley.

We recommend checking current parking fees and the opening hours of the lookout tower before your trip. Access to the courtyard, the tower, and other parts of the castle may depend on the season and the operations of the hotel.

Hrubá Skála Castle: Originally an Impregnable Fortress on the Rocks

Hrubá Skála Castle doesn't just stand next to the sandstone cliffs; it is built directly on top of them, towering high above the surrounding gorges. Crossing the bridge to enter the castle feels a bit like stepping into another world.

The Gothic castle named Skála originally stood on this site, likely founded by Hynek of Valdštejn before the year 1353. Its location was not chosen by chance—the steep sandstone walls and deep gorges provided natural protection, making the site accessible from only one side.

Over the centuries, the original castle changed hands several times. Under the Smiřický family, it was rebuilt into a Renaissance chateau, and it later came under the administration of Albrecht of Valdštejn, who annexed it to his Duchy of Frýdlant. The property suffered during the Thirty Years' War and was damaged by several fires. In the 19th century, a romantic renovation gave the castle its Neo-Gothic appearance, which it retains to this day.

After 1945, the castle became state property and later served as a trade union holiday resort. Today, it houses a hotel and a restaurant. Visitors can explore the courtyard and, depending on current operations, climb the castle tower. In good weather, the tower offers sweeping views of Hruboskalsko, Trosky Castle, Kozákov hill, and Tábor hill.

However, instead of distant vistas, we were treated to a thick fog this time. But it suited the castle perfectly. It made it look more mysterious, dramatic, and almost like a place where an ancient family curse was still being actively debated behind closed doors.

The Route of the Hrubá Skála Loop

From the castle, head straight into the Hrubá Skála rock town. The loop can be walked in both directions and shortened in various ways, but we recommend combining the castle with the Myší díra (Mouse Hole) pass, the lower section of the rock town, the Na Kapelu viewpoint, and the Bukovina Arboretum. You will then return to the castle via Adamovo lože (Adam’s Bed).

In brief, the route maps out as follows:
Hrubá Skála Castle – Myší díra – Lower section of the rock town & natural springs – Na Kapelu viewpoint – Bukovina Arboretum – Adamovo lože – Hrubá Skála Castle

The trail markings in the area are good, but we still highly recommend having the route saved in an offline map. Hruboskalsko offers many detours, and it is very easy to get lured away by another viewpoint or a hidden rocky path. Which isn't a mistake at all—it might just extend your trip a little bit.

Myší díra: Down Through a Narrow Rock Crevice

One of the most fascinating spots near the castle is Myší díra (The Mouse Hole), a narrow rock fissure equipped with stone stairs. The passage isn't long, but it instantly transports you from the manicured surroundings of the castle straight down between towering sandstone walls.

Watch your step in wet conditions, as the stairs can become quite slippery. Naturally, this section is completely unsuitable for strollers, and people who feel uncomfortable in tight spaces can opt for a more comfortable alternative route.

Along the way, we stumbled upon a guesthouse where they served a delicious goulash soup for lunch. Easily the best I've ever had. Unfortunately, I can't remember the name or the exact location. As soon as I thoroughly comb through the map, I'll be more than happy to share this additional gastro tip.

Fog Among the RocksThe fog clung to the forest, and the sandstone towers emerged from it gradually, sometimes appearing just a few meters ahead of us. Instead of classic panoramas, we found ourselves focusing primarily on individual details—wet bark, moss, water droplets on ferns, and the silhouettes of rocks disappearing into the white darkness.

It is precisely in this kind of weather that one understands why rock towns are shrouded in so many legends. Hruboskalsko doesn't look any less beautiful without the sun. It simply reveals a completely different face: rawer, quieter, and far more mysterious.

The Na Kapelu Viewpoint

The main destination of our loop was the Na Kapelu viewpoint, which ranks among the most famous spots in Hruboskalsko. It lies on the red-marked Golden Trail of the Bohemian Paradise (Zlatá stezka Českého ráje) between Hrubá Skála Castle and Valdštejn Castle.

The viewpoint opens up to a vista of a sandstone tower group called Kapela (The Band). The individual rock formations resemble musicians gathered around the most prominent tower, Kapelník (The Conductor). The Hrubá Skála rock town consists of more than 400 rock towers, with some reaching heights of up to 55 meters, so looking down from above truly highlights how vast the entire territory is.

The viewpoint features two small platforms secured by railings. In clear weather, you can see the rock towers in their full glory. We, however, had to sense parts of the Kapela formation rather than actually see it. The fog rolled between the rocks, making the towers vanish and reappear. It was different from the postcard photos, but perhaps even more impressive.

If you have extra time, you can continue along the red trail to the nearby U Lvíčka viewpoint, or extend your hike all the way to Valdštejn Castle. On the shorter loop, head back from the Na Kapelu viewpoint via the Bukovina Arboretum toward the castle.

Bukovina Arboretum and Adamovo lože

On your way back, the Bukovina Arboretum is well worth a stop. Founded in the 19th century, it was established as an experimental plot for growing North American tree species. It offers a pleasant change of scenery after the rocky trails and serves as a perfect spot to slow down for a moment.

Close to the castle, you will then come across Adamovo lože (Adam’s Bed), a rock relief carved into the sandstone. Originally called Venus’s Cave (Venušina sluj), it was commissioned at the turn of the 19th century by František Adam of Valdštejn. Although only a portion of the original decorations has survived, it remains one of those spots that perfectly complement the romantic landscape of Hruboskalsko.

From here, it is just a short walk back to Hrubá Skála Castle, where the loop draws to a close.

A Shorter Alternative to the Na Kapelu Viewpoint

If you don't have time for the full loop, you can head out from the castle past Adamovo lože and the Bukovina Arboretum straight to the Na Kapelu viewpoint, and return via the same path. Expect a distance of approximately 4 km round-trip, depending on your chosen parking lot and detours.This alternative is suitable for anyone who wants to see the castle and the most famous viewpoint but prefers to skip descending into the lower section of the rock town. However, even this variation is not stroller-friendly—some sections are uneven and lead along unpaved forest paths.

When to Visit Hrubá Skála

Hruboskalsko is beautiful all year round, it just looks different every time.

• Spring: The forest turns vibrant green, and the weather is not yet too hot.
• Summer: Expect the highest volume of visitors. It pays off to head out early in the morning.
• Autumn: The colorful forests truly stand out, providing the rocks with an even more photogenic backdrop.
• Winter: The landscape can be breathtaking, but the steps and sandstone paths tend to be icy.
• Fog: You won't get all the long-distance panoramas, but you will get an unforgettable atmosphere instead.

In July, we expected a completely different kind of trip. In the end, though, we were glad that the weather showed us Hrubá Skála exactly like this.

Where to Eat: ÊMÔI Vietnamese Restaurant in Turnov

After the hike, we headed to the ÊMÔI Vietnamese restaurant in Turnov. And if you love Vietnamese cuisine, you can easily plan this stop right into your itinerary.The restaurant is located on Sobotecká Street, about a 15-minute drive from Hrubá Skála. The interior is modern, the menu is diverse, and it is definitely not just a quick fast-food bistro where you grab a box of noodles to go.

ÊMÔI focuses on authentic Vietnamese cuisine ranging from classic Phở to Bún bò Nam Bộ, alongside other traditional and modernly presented dishes.

Don't be fooled—the building housing the restaurant doesn't look particularly luxurious from the outside, but that doesn't change the fact that a culinary treasure is hidden within.

The name of the restaurant comes from the Vietnamese phrase "em mời", which is used as a polite invitation to eat or sit down together. After a few kilometers of walking among the rocks, this was exactly the kind of invitation we needed.

• Address: ÊMÔI Restaurant, Sobotecká 595, Turnov
• Opening Hours: Daily 11:00 AM – 10:00 PM (according to their official website; remember to double-check before your visit)

Is the Hrubá Skála Loop Worth It?

Without a doubt, yes. On a relatively short route, you get a castle, history, sandstone towers, narrow rock passes, and one of the most beautiful viewpoints in Bohemian Paradise. Furthermore, you can easily adjust the loop based on your time and fitness level—you can stroll just to the Na Kapelu viewpoint or continue further past other vistas all the way to Valdštejn Castle.

And if the forecast doesn't look perfect, don't cancel your trip right away. You might not see Trosky Castle or miles into the countryside. Instead, you will get fog rolling between the rocks, a quiet forest, and Hrubá Skála in its most mysterious form.

Sometimes, bad weather doesn't ruin a trip. It just writes a completely different story for it.