My High Tatras "Top Pick": Hiking from Zelené Pleso to Skalnaté Pleso via Veľká Svišťovka

I’ve hiked through so many places there—some of them multiple times. If you asked me which spot in the High Tatras is closest to my heart, I wouldn't have to think twice. It’s Zelené Pleso (colloquially known as 'Brnčalka').

Especially in the summer, this place has an absolutely magical atmosphere. We planned a route that combines everything you would expect from a proper mountain hike: a crystal-blue lake, steep climbs, an adrenaline rush on safety chains, and a slightly nostalgic return home. Join me as we take a look at one of the most beautiful and diverse full-day hikes you can experience in the Tatras!

How to Get to the Trailhead: By Car or TrainThe starting point for the hike to Zelené Pleso is the Kežmarská Biela Voda junction. There are several ways to get here:By Car (Our Choice): We drove and parked directly at the paid Biela Voda parking lot. However, during the summer season, you need to arrive early in the morning—the parking lot fills up at lightning speed. Let’s be honest, though, it’s a pretty long drive from Prague. But it’s beautiful. In my next article, I’ll get you excited about Slovak castles and the Low Tatras.By Train and Bus: If you prefer public transport, just take the Tatra Electric Railway (TEŽ) or a train to Tatranská Lomnica. From there, regular bus lines head towards Ždiar and stop directly at the "Vysoké Tatry, Biela Voda" bus stop. There are multiple operators running trains and buses from the Czech Republic, and the journey takes about 7 hours.

From Biela Voda, you follow the yellow-marked trail. The first few kilometers lead through the shade of the forest along a wild, rushing river. The path climbs gently, the terrain gradually turns rocky, and breathtaking panoramic views of the Tatra peaks begin to open up around you.

After less than three hours of walking, the Valley of Zelené Pleso opens up before you, and you catch sight of your first milestone. Chata pri Zelenom plese (1,551 m above sea level) sits right on the shore of a crystal-clear lake, which boasts an incredible emerald-green color thanks to glacial flour and algae. Towering vertically above it are the monumental wall of Malý Kežmarský Štít and the jagged Jastrabia Veža. This is a view you simply never get tired ofI have always had a soft spot for the High Tatras.

A Culinary Reward: The Giant Fruit DumplingThe food at Brnčalka is excellent, but for me, there is one absolute must-have: their legendary, giant steamed sweet bun (parená buchta) smothered in a ton of melted butter and topped with cocoa powder or poppy seeds. After that initial climb, enjoying it on the terrace with a view of the green water makes it taste like the best meal in the world!

Part Two: Adrenaline on the Chains Heading to Veľká SvišťovkaAfter lunch and a good rest, it was time for the more challenging but all the more adventurous part. From the hut, we joined the red-marked Tatra Main Trail (Tatranská magistrála) toward Veľká Svišťovka (2,037 m above sea level). The path begins with steep switchbacks through dwarf pine, but it soon turns into a scree slope and bare rock.

As you climb higher and higher, the hut below shrinks to the size of a children's toy. Just below the mountain pass comes the best part—an exposed rocky section secured with safety chains. This is where you need to pack your trekking poles into your backpack and use both hands.

Scrambling up the rock with a solid chain in your palms gives the trip that authentic mountain edge. However, the view from the pass below Svišťovka is 100% worth it—you have the entire valley right in the palm of your hand.

Skalnaté Pleso and the Descent Past the Abandoned Cable CarFrom the pass, the trail pleasantly descends along the contour line all the way to Skalnaté Pleso (1,751 m above sea level). Here, you are treated to a view of the iconic Lomnický Štít, with its suspension cable car stretching up from this spot. Instead of riding the modern cable car down, however, we decided to hike down toward Tatranská Lomnica.

The path leads down alongside a wide ski slope. What gives this section a unique and somewhat mysterious atmosphere are the remnants of the old, now abandoned suspension cable car. The old concrete pillars and the empty intermediate station, Štart, tell the story of the history of Tatra tourism, creating a fascinating, almost nostalgic impression in the midst of the wild nature.

When we finally arrived down in Lomnica after a long day, our legs were sore, but our hearts were full of memories. The crossing over Svišťovka is simply a route that gets under your skin.