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South Bohemia That Never Gets Old: Why We Keep Coming Back to Český Krumlov and

We’ve visited Český Krumlov in every season, and every single time, I fall in love with it all over again.

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Český Krumlov jsme navštívili opravdu v každém ročním období a pokaždé se zamiluju.

Do you have places in Czechia that you could return to a hundred times and still fall in love with them every single time?

For us, they are undoubtedly two South Bohemian gems – Český Krumlov and Lipno. We come here regularly, in every season, and by now we have our own little rituals, favourite cafés and hidden corners. If you’re planning a long weekend or a holiday, let our guide inspire you to discover the places we enjoy the most.

Magical Český Krumlov: History, Romance and an Enchanting Open-Air Theatre

Český Krumlov is the very definition of romance for us. Nestled in the meanders of the Vltava River, the town has an unmistakable atmosphere that is best experienced simply by wandering aimlessly through its winding cobbled streets.

A Brief Glimpse into History

The history of Český Krumlov dates back to the 13th century, when the first castle of the Lords of Krumlov (the Vítkovci dynasty) was built here. The town was later shaped by the powerful Rosenbergs, who gave it its distinctive Renaissance character and the iconic five-petalled rose motif.

A walk around the monumental castle, across the Cloak Bridge and through the historic centre will instantly transport you several centuries back in time. And whatever you do, don’t miss a tour of the castle itself.

Our Favourite: The Revolving Theatre

The main reason we keep coming back to Český Krumlov so often, however, is the Revolving Theatre, hidden away in the castle gardens.

Watching a performance under the open sky, with the entire stage slowly rotating while centuries-old trees, the beautifully illuminated Bellaria Summer House and the dark surrounding park become part of the living scenery, is an absolutely breathtaking experience.

Ticket-hunter’s tip: Tickets are hugely popular and disappear in the blink of an eye. Official ticket sales for the entire summer season usually open around October 1 of the previous year. If you want to secure good seats, set a reminder in your calendar. Trust us, moving fast is absolutely worth it for this unforgettable evening! You can also register your email address to receive a notification when tickets for the following year go on sale.

Where to Eat and Drink in Český Krumlov

Český Krumlov is no longer just about traditional Czech pubs catering to tourists. The local food scene has improved enormously.

  • A taste of Asia: When we fancy a break from heavier Czech cuisine, we head to the excellent Vietnamese restaurant Hanoi Memories on Kájovská Street. They serve delicious Bun Bo Nam Bo and steaming bowls of Pho, the portions are generous and the atmosphere is lovely.
  • For coffee lovers: The town is literally dotted with charming cafés. One of our rituals is finding a table overlooking the gently flowing Vltava. Watching the river drift by, paddlers passing on the water and the majestic castle tower rising above the rooftops, all while sipping a good cappuccino (sorry, Italy), is pure therapy.

Active or Lazy Lipno: From the Treetops to the Water

From historic Český Krumlov, it’s only a short drive to Lipno, which offers a completely different – but equally wonderful – kind of energy. Our very own “South Bohemian sea” is a paradise for anyone who loves being active outdoors, as well as for those who simply want to lie back and soak up the sun.

What to See and Where to Eat

One stop definitely worth making is the Lipno Treetop Walkway. The views from its 50-metre-high observation tower across the reservoir and the Šumava forests are different every time – and always beautiful.

The Lipno Treetop Walkway was the first treetop walkway in the Czech Republic. Before it opened, Czechs had to travel to neighbouring Germany for this kind of experience. It opened to the public in 2012 and is supported by a total of 75 massive wooden pillars.

Inside the tower, a 52-metre-long dry slide winds its way down, allowing you to speed back to the ground.

Ticket prices are not fixed. They vary depending on the season, day of the week, weather forecast and, above all, how far in advance you buy your ticket. The cheapest tickets (starting at around CZK 190–230 during promotions) are available online when booked well in advance through the Lipnocard.cz e-shop. Tickets purchased at the on-site ticket office on the day of your visit tend to be the most expensive.

Where to grab coffee and lunch: We like to refuel near the top of the walkway. Bistro Kramec offers a great spot to enjoy a proper meal, coffee and their famous sweet yeast buns with custard after your walk.

And if you find yourself craving fish back down in Lipno nad Vltavou, don’t miss the local speciality of fried carp strips– a crispy South Bohemian treat we simply can’t leave without trying!

A Day Full of Activities: Water, Bikes and Relaxing by the Marina

What we love about Lipno is how easily you can fit several different activities into a single day:

  • Grab a paddleboard and hit the water: Renting a paddleboard, pushing off from the shore and watching the buzz of the beach from the calm surface of the lake is the perfect way to unwind. There are plenty of swimming spots, and the beaches are clean and well maintained.
  • Cycling around the lake: The cycling and inline skating trail from Lipno nad Vltavou to Frymburk is an absolute must. It runs right along the water, is beautifully paved and is easy enough for casual cyclists and families with children.
  • A romantic walk: When we’re in the mood for something quieter, we take a stroll along Lipno’s wooden pier. Sitting at the edge with your feet dangling above the water, watching the sunset and sailboats in the distance… that is Lipno at its most peaceful.

South Bohemia really does have it all – culture, history, great food and wild nature. And we already know that this October, we’ll be back on the South Bohemian Theatre website, clicking away to secure another summer in Český Krumlov!

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