Israel – Our First Time Without a Tour Agency and a Clash with the Wild Middle East.

Every traveler has that one country that started it all. For us, it was Israel. Our very first joint trip completely on our own, without a tour guide backing us up. We flew out in September, having no idea that a journey full of massive contrasts awaited us—one that would completely reshape how we view the world.

A Nighttime Baptism of Fire and a Hellishly Expensive Taxi

Our start was pure punk. The plane touched down at Tel Aviv airport in the dead of night. Everything was dark, exhaustion was setting in, and there we were—in the Middle East for the very first time in our lives, with absolutely no clue how to get to the city center. Public transport was completely shut down at that hour, leaving us staring helplessly at a map.

Fortunately, traveler solidarity came through. We were approached by a group of foreigners who found themselves in the exact same situation. We pooled our money together and split a taxi. Even so, it was a financial slap in the face—taxis in Israel are hellishly expensive (though that's usually the case from airports anywhere). But it was our first major lesson: when traveling without an agency, you are never truly alone; there is always someone willing to help.

The Bat Yam District: Our First Airbnb with Svetlana from Ukraine

For the first time in our lives, we booked our accommodation through the Airbnb platform. We stayed in the coastal district of Bat Yam with Svetlana, who had been living and working there for years. She had come from Ukraine, and life there was definitely no walk in the park for her. From what I remember, she worked multiple jobs just to make ends meet. But she was happy, which is what matters most. That is the greatest beauty of traveling without a tour group—you get straight into the real homes of local people and see their everyday reality.

We dedicated our first day entirely to exploring the neighborhood. Bat Yam absolutely thrilled us with its long sandy beaches and great sea. We strolled along the coast, soaked up the hot September sun, and watched local life go by. Later on, we used this place as a base to make trips into the modern, wild heart of Tel Aviv itself.

When Plans Are Changed by a Suicide Attack

In the following days, our itinerary included a trip to the famous Dead Sea. The bus that departed there every day stopped right outside our accommodation. However, Israel can be harsh, and the geopolitical situation here changes from one minute to the next. Right during our stay, a suicide attack occurred in the area.

Security forces completely and hermetically sealed everything off, which meant an absolute red light for us. It was a tough lesson straight from the field. Back then, the Dead Sea simply wasn't meant to be. We only got to see it years later from the other side in Jordan (as you already know from my previous travelogue). But it taught us one crucial thing: when traveling on your own, safety always comes first, and you must constantly have a Plan B ready. Because of that, we ended up spending a substantial part of our time in Israel just swimming in the sea. I truly believe our next visit will be much better planned—after all, there are still plenty of places we missed.

By Bus to Jerusalem: Guns Everywhere and Goosebumps

The next day, we hopped on a local bus and headed toward Jerusalem. For us as Europeans, it was an unbelievable culture shock. Everywhere you looked, young male and female soldiers in uniform stood with massive assault rifles in their hands. You ran into them on the bus, in the street, at historical landmarks, or just casually buying coffee and walking home with their groceries. It was an incredibly fascinating sight to witness.

The omnipresent atmosphere of constant alertness, paired with the absolute calmness of the locals, will truly give you goosebumps. Walking through the Old City, visiting the Western Wall, and exploring the narrow alleys where three of the world's major religions collide under the strict, watchful eye of the military is an experience that etches itself deep under your skin.

Tel Aviv: The Modern New York of the Middle East

From peaceful Bat Yam, we regularly headed into the very center of Tel Aviv, which was an absolute visual shock. If Jerusalem is history, Tel Aviv is pure future and freedom. The city is packed with modern skyscrapers, upscale restaurants, cyclists on electric scooters, and hipster cafés. We walked along the endless beach promenade that lines the entire city, soaking up the incredibly relaxed, Western vibe.

In total contrast to the modern neighborhoods is the ancient port of Jaffa in the southern part of the city. There, thousands of years of history breathe down your neck as you wander through stone alleys filled with art galleries. From the fortress walls, you get the absolute best view of the modern Tel Aviv skyline with skyscrapers in the background. We absolutely loved this clash of the old and new worlds.

Gastro Survival in One of the Most Expensive Countries in the World

Compared to Jordan or Egypt, Israel is in a completely different financial league, with prices easily rivaling the most expensive countries in Western Europe. If you assume that the Middle East is automatically cheap, Israel will quickly prove you wrong. It is easily one of the most expensive destinations far and wide.

The prices in restaurants and regular supermarkets completely blew our minds at first glance—spending the equivalent of 600 CZK (€24) on two ordinary meals at a standard fast-food joint is the norm here (though I don't know the exact current prices). To avoid spending an entire paycheck on our very first independent trip, we had to quickly find a budget mode. Our saviors became home cooking at our Airbnb and street falafel. We bought basic ingredients at the supermarket and whipped up dinners ourselves. And whenever we hit the streets, we relied on falafel in pita bread, packed with plenty of veggies and hummus from street vendors. It costs just a few shekels, fills you up for half a day, and tastes absolutely phenomenal. Israeli gastronomy will definitely test your wallet, but if you know what and where to buy, you won't starve!