We didn't come to the Balkans looking for a relaxing beach holiday.

We came for dramatic mountains, fascinating history, a little bit of chaos, and places that still feel authentic rather than polished for tourists.

Kosovo was the biggest unknown on our itinerary, while North Macedonia promised beautiful lakes, mountain landscapes, and a slower pace of life.

Kosovo: The Cities Didn't Win Us Over, but the Mountains Absolutely Did

Our journey began in Kosovo.

To be completely honest, if you're hoping to find charming European towns, you probably won't discover them in Pristina or Prizren.

Pristina felt like a chaotic maze of concrete, where modern glass buildings compete with Yugoslav-era brutalist architecture.

Even the much-praised Prizren didn't completely win us over. While it certainly has its own charm, parts of the town felt rather worn, and its tourism potential still seems largely untapped.

One practical tip: cash is essential. Many places still don't accept cards, and finding a parking space can be an adventure in itself.

Traffic may look chaotic, but after driving through Vietnam, Kosovo felt surprisingly manageable.

Our verdict

If you're short on time, you could easily skip Kosovo's cities.

The mountains, however, are a completely different story.

Once you leave the urban areas behind and head towards the border, the scenery changes dramatically.

The Accursed Mountains (Prokletije) offer breathtaking landscapes, complete silence, and rugged peaks that seem to stretch endlessly across the horizon.

That alone makes Kosovo worth visiting.

Of course, everyone experiences places differently.

But if I had to choose between returning to Kosovo or Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bosnia would win every time. It's simply one of my favourite countries.

Skopje: A Disneyland for Adults

Crossing into North Macedonia, we arrived in the country's capital, Skopje.

It's a city of striking contrasts.

The city centre is largely the result of the controversial "Skopje 2014" redevelopment project.

There are so many statues that after a few minutes you simply stop counting them.

From the enormous equestrian statue of Alexander the Great to triumphal arches and grand neoclassical buildings, the city often feels more like a movie set than a traditional European capital.

Still, an evening walk along the Vardar River has a charm of its own, especially once the monuments are illuminated after sunset.

Don't forget to cross the historic Stone Bridge.

On the opposite bank you'll find the Old Bazaar, where the aromas of tea, spices, grilled meat, and fresh bread create a completely different atmosphere.

For us, this was the real Skopje.

As far as I know, it's the second-largest historic bazaar in the Balkans after Istanbul's Grand Bazaar, which we visited a few years ago.

I have to admit, though, that the enormous Alexander the Great fountain really impressed me.

It's just a shame to see so many beautiful historic buildings standing abandoned throughout the city centre.

In Prague, many of these buildings would probably have been transformed into boutique hotels or luxury stores years ago.

Where We Stayed

One thing that pleasantly surprised us in North Macedonia was the quality of the accommodation.

We booked our stays through Airbnb and found beautiful, modern apartments that were fully equipped with everything we needed. They were spacious, spotlessly clean, and many offered stunning views of the surrounding mountains and the city.

Even better, the prices were incredibly reasonable, making North Macedonia one of the best-value destinations we have visited in Europe. If you're planning a road trip through the country, we can definitely recommend looking for accommodation on Airbnb—you'll often find excellent apartments for a fraction of what you'd pay in many Western European destinations.

Tetovo: Great Food Before an Even Better Hike

In Tetovo, we enjoyed one of the best meals of the trip.

For around CZK 200, we shared:

• a freshly baked pide,
• two generous grilled chicken breasts with side dishes,
• and drinks.

Excellent food at an excellent price.

After lunch, we headed towards the Eight Waterfalls Trail near Tetovo.

The hike was absolutely stunning.

Crystal-clear streams, lush forest, and one waterfall after another made it one of the highlights of our time in North Macedonia.

There was only one downside.

Unfortunately, litter was still a noticeable problem in several places along the trail.

Despite that, the scenery more than made up for it, and the hike remains one of the experiences we would happily recommend to anyone visiting the region.

Mavrovo, Galičnik & Matka Canyon: Saving the Best for Last

Our journey continued to Lake Mavrovo, and the drive along its shoreline was pure therapy for the soul.

One of our first stops was the iconic submerged Church of St. Nicholas, whose bell tower rises above the lake whenever the water level is low. Watching wild horses grazing freely around the church made the whole scene even more magical.

From there, we climbed higher into the mountains towards the village of Galičnik.

One of the highest villages in North Macedonia, Galičnik is famous for its traditional stone houses, breathtaking mountain scenery, and locally produced cheese.

It was freezing cold.

Strong winds swept across the mountains, reminding us how quickly the weather can change at higher elevations.

The road leading there is narrow, winding, and occasionally nerve-racking, but every kilometre is rewarded with spectacular views.

Below you'll also find our recommendation for a wonderful guesthouse overlooking the lake, run by an incredibly kind hostess who prepared us a truly unforgettable breakfast with homemade mountain cheese, local jam, and freshly baked cheese burek.

Matka Canyon: The Perfect Ending

We finished our Balkan road trip at Matka Canyon.

Although it's located just outside Skopje and can become quite crowded, it's an absolutely magical place.

Unfortunately, we chose the busiest possible time.

It was a Sunday, and dozens of tour buses had already arrived.

Luckily, we managed to find a hidden parking spot and walked the remaining distance.

We rented a kayak and explored the canyon from the water.

It was unforgettable.

The emerald-green river winding between towering limestone cliffs creates one of the most beautiful landscapes in North Macedonia.

The silence of the canyon, broken only by the sound of paddles cutting through the water, was the perfect ending to our Balkan adventure.

Our Recommendation

If you're short on time...

Skip most of the cities and head straight into nature.

The mountains of North Macedonia are one of Europe's hidden treasures—and we believe they're only just beginning to receive the attention they deserve.

Where to Stay

1. Skopje (First Night)

We stayed in a stylish apartment for around CZK 560 per night for two people.

The apartment itself looked great, and we cooked most of our own meals there.

The only downside was that previous guests had clearly smoked inside, and the smell was noticeable. If you're a non-smoker like us, it's something to keep in mind.

2. Skopje (Second Apartment)

Without a doubt, one of the nicest apartments of the trip.

For around CZK 700 per night, we got a spacious, spotless apartment hosted by an incredibly friendly owner.

Highly recommended.

3. Tetovo

If you don't mind spending a night in a roadside hotel, this is a perfectly reasonable option.

Breakfast was included, and the room cost around CZK 900 per night for two people.

The room was slightly damp, but overall it was comfortable enough for one night.

The highlight?

A spectacularly over-the-top silver sofa that looked like it belonged at a funfair rather than in a hotel. We couldn't help but laugh.

4. Lake Mavrovo

Our favourite accommodation in North Macedonia.

Beautiful lake views.

Excellent breakfast.

Perfect location for exploring the surrounding mountains.

Honestly, we couldn't find a single thing to complain about.

5. Near Skopje Airport

On our final night we stayed in another spacious Airbnb apartment with stunning mountain views.

The apartment was spotless, the hosts were incredibly welcoming, and it was the perfect place to relax before our flight home.

We would happily stay there again.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many days do you need for North Macedonia and Kosovo?

Six days are enough for a similar itinerary, although seven or eight days would allow you to travel at a much more relaxed pace.

Which is better: Kosovo or North Macedonia?

For us, North Macedonia was the clear winner thanks to its spectacular mountains, lakes, and nature.

Kosovo impressed us much more outside the cities than within them.

How much did the trip cost?

Approximately CZK 6,000 per person, travelling comfortably but without unnecessary luxury.

Is it worth renting a car?

Absolutely.

Without a rental car, reaching many of the country's most beautiful mountain areas would be much more difficult.

Who is this trip suitable for?

Anyone looking for an affordable road trip filled with mountains, history, authentic places, and who doesn't mind slightly less developed infrastructure.